Tanning is the chemical process that converts animal hides and skins into leather. The term
hide is used for the skin of large animals (e.g., cows or horses), while
skin
is used for that of small animals (e.g., sheep). Hides and skins are
mostly by-products of slaughterhouses, although they may also come from
animals that have died naturally or been hunted or trapped. Tanning
industries are usually located near stock-raising regions; however,
hides and skins may be preserved and transported prior to tanning, so
the industry is widespread.
The tanning process consists in strengthening the hide’s protein
structure by creating a bond between the peptide chains. The hide is
composed of three layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous layer. The
dermis consists of about 30 to 35% protein, which is mostly collagen,
with the remainder being water and fat. The dermis is used to make
leather after the other layers have been removed using chemical and
mechanical means. The tanning process uses acids, alkalis, salts,
enzymes and tanning agents to dissolve fats and non-fibrous proteins and
chemically bond the collagen fibres together.
Tanning has been practised since prehistoric times. The oldest system
of tanning relies on the chemical action of vegetable material
containing tannin (tannic acid). Extracts are taken from the parts of
plants that are rich in tannin and processed into tanning liquors. The
hides are soaked in pits or vats of increasingly strong liquors until
they are tanned, which may take weeks or months. This process is used in
countries with low levels of technology. This process is also used in
developed countries to produce firmer, thicker leather for shoe soles,
bags, cases and straps, although process changes have been introduced to
shorten the time needed for tanning. Chemical tanning using mineral
salts such as chromium sulphate was introduced during the late 19th
century and has become the primary process to produce softer, thinner
leather for goods such as handbags, gloves, garments, upholstery and
shoe uppers. Tanning may also be accomplished using fish oils or
synthetic tannins.
There is great variation in the scale and types of tanning
facilities. Some tanneries are highly mechanized and use closed
automatic systems and many chemicals, whereas others still use largely
manual work and natural tanning substances with techniques essentially
unchanged over the centuries (see figure 1). The type of product
required (e.g., heavy-duty leather or fine flexible leathers) influences
the choice of tanning agents and the finishing required.
Figure 1. Manual working methods in an Afghanistan tannery
Process Description
Leather production can be divided into three stages: preparation of
the hide for tanning, which includes processes such as the removal of
hair and adherent flesh; the tanning process; and the finishing process.
Finishing includes mechanical processes to shape and smooth the leather
and chemical treatments to colour, lubricate, soften and apply a
surface finish to the leather (see figure 2). All of these processes may
take place in one facility, although it is common for leather finishing
to be conducted at locations different from tanning in order to take
advantage of transportation costs and local markets. The implication is
that it affects the likelihood of cross-contamination among the
processes.
Figure 2. Typical processes for leather tanning & finishing
Curing and shipment. Because raw hides and skins decay
rapidly, they are preserved and disinfected prior to shipment to the
tannery. The hide or skin is flayed from the carcass and then preserved
by curing. Curing can be accomplished by a variety of means. Curing by
drying is suitable in regions where hot and dry climatic conditions
prevail. Drying consists of stretching the hides on frames or spreading
them on the ground in the sun. Dry-salting, another method of curing
hides, consists of rubbing the fleshy side of the hide with salt. Brine
curing, or brining, consists of submerging the hides in a solution of
sodium chloride to which naphthalene may have been added. Brining is the
most common form of preservation in developed countries.
Prior to shipment, hides are generally treated with DDT, zinc
chloride, mercury chloride, chlorophenols or other agents for
disinfection. These substances may represent hazards both at the site of
curing and on receipt at the tannery.
Preparation. The cured hides and skins are prepared for tanning by several operations, collectively referred to as
beamhouse
operations. First the hides are sorted, trimmed and then washed in vats
or drums. Disinfectants such as bleaching powder, chlorine and sodium
acid fluoride in the water prevent putrefaction of hides. Chemicals such
as caustic soda, sodium sulphide and surfactants are added to the water
to accelerate soaking of dry-salted or dried hides.
The soaked hides and skins are then limed by immersing in milk of
lime to loosen the epidermis and hair roots and to remove other unwanted
soluble proteins and fats. In another method, a depilatory paste of
lime, sulphide and salt is applied to the flesh side of the skins in
order to save hair and wool. The limed hides are unhaired to remove the
loosened hairs and defleshed. Epidermal debris and fine hair roots are
mechanically removed by the scudding operation.
These operations are followed by deliming and bating with buffering
salts, such as ammonium sulphate or ammonium chloride, and the action of
proteolytic enzymes neutralizes the high alkalinity of limed hides. In
pickling, hides are placed in an acid environment consisting of sodium
chloride and sulphuric acid. The acid is necessary because
chrome-tanning agents are not soluble under alkaline conditions.
Vegetable-tanned hides do not need to be pickled.
Many of the beamhouse operations are carried out by processing the
hides in solutions using large pits, vats or drums. Solutions are piped
or poured into the containers and later emptied through pipes or into
open drainage channels in the work area. The chemicals may be added to
the containers by pipes or manually by workers. Good ventilation and
personal protective equipment are needed to prevent respiratory and
dermal exposure.
Tanyard. Various substances may be used for tanning, but the
main distinction is between vegetable and chrome tanning. Vegetable
tanning may be carried out either in pits or in rotating drums. Rapid
tanning, in which high concentrations of tannins are used, is carried
out in rotating drums. The chrome-tanning process most often used is the
one-bath method, in which the hides are milled in a colloidal solution of chromium (III) sulphate until tanning is complete. A
two-bath
chrome-tanning process was used in the past, but this process involved
potential exposure to hexavalent chromium salts and required more manual
handling of the hides. The two-bath process is now considered obsolete
and is rarely used.
Once tanned, the hide is further processed to shape and condition the
leather. The hide is removed from the solution and excess water is
removed by wringing. Chrome leather must be neutralized after being
tanned. Splitting is the longitudinal division of wet or dry leather
that is too thick, for articles such as shoe uppers and leather goods.
Roll machines with cutting blades are used to further reduce the leather
to the thickness required. A large amount of dust may be released when
the leather is split or shaved while dry.
Re-tanning, colouring and fat-liquoring. After tanning, most
leathers except sole leathers undergo colouring (dyeing). Generally,
colouring is performed in a batch mode; and re-tanning, colouring and
fat liquoring operations are all performed in sequence in the same drum
with intermediate steps of washing and drying. Three major types of dyes
are used: acid, basic and direct. Blends of dyes are used in order to
obtain the exact shade desired, so the composition is not always known
except by the supplier. The purpose of fat-liquoring is to lubricate
leather to give it strength and flexibility. Oils, natural fats, their
transformation products, mineral oils and several synthetic fats are
used.
Finishing. After drying, vegetable tanned leather is
subjected to mechanical operations (setting and rolling) and given a
final polish. The finishing process for chrome leather includes a series
of mechanical operations and, normally, the application of a covering
layer to the leather surface. Staking is a mechanical beating operation
used to make the leather soft. To improve the final appearance, the
grain side of the leather is buffed using a sanding drum. This process
generates a tremendous amount of dust.
A final surface finish is applied, which may contain solvents,
plasticizers, binders and pigments. These solutions are applied by pads,
flow coating or spraying. Some tanneries employ hand labour to apply
the finish using pads, but this is usually carried out by machines. In
flow coating, the solution is pumped into a reservoir above the conveyor
carrying the leather and flows down onto it. In most cases, painted or
sprayed leathers are not dried in ovens, but on trays on shelves. This
practice provides a wide evaporating surface and contributes to air
pollution.
Hazards and Their Prevention
Infectious hazards. In the early stages of the beamhouse
operations, there may be some risk of infection due to zoonoses from the
raw hides. Anthrax was a recognized hazard among workers engaged in
handling hides and skins, particularly dry and dry-salted hides. This
hazard has been virtually eliminated in tanneries due to disinfection of
hides prior to shipment to the facilities. Colonies of fungi may
develop on leathers and on the surface of the liquors.
Injuries. Slippery, wet and greasy floors form a serious
hazard in all parts of a tannery. All floors should be of impervious
material, have an even surface and be well drained. Good maintenance and
housekeeping are essential. Mechanized transfer of hides and skins from
one operation to another and proper drainage of liquors from vats and
drums will help to reduce spillage and manual-handling ergonomic
problems. Open pits and vats should be fenced to prevent injuries due to
drowning and scalds.
There are many hazards connected with the operating parts of the
machines—for example, injuries caused by revolving drums, in-running
rollers and knives. Efficient guarding should be provided. All
transmission machinery, belts, pulleys and gear wheels should be
guarded.
Several operations involve manual lifting of the hides and leather,
which represents an ergonomic hazard. Noise associated with the
machinery is another potential hazard.
Dust. Dust is produced in a variety of tanning operations.
Chemical dust can be produced during the loading of hide-processing
drums. Leather dust is produced during mechanical operations. Buffing is
the major source of dust. The dust in tanneries may be impregnated with
chemicals, as well as fragments of hair, mould and excrement. Effective
ventilation is needed for dust removal.
Chemical hazards. The large variety of acids, alkalis,
tannins, solvents, disinfectants and other chemicals can be respiratory
and skin irritants. Dusts of vegetable tanning materials, lime and
leather and chemical mists and vapours arising in the various processes
may be responsible for causing chronic bronchitis. Several chemicals may
cause contact dermatitis. Chrome ulceration may occur in chrome
tanning, especially on the hands. Exposures in the beamhouse operations
are mainly to sulphur compounds such as sulphides and sulphates. Since
these are alkaline substances, there is a potential to generate hydrogen
sulphide gas if these substances contact acids.
Potential cancer-causing agents used in leather tanning and
finishing include hexavalent chromium salts (in the past), aniline and
azo dyes, vegetable tannins, organic solvents, formaldehyde and
chlorophenols. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC)
evaluated the leather tanning industry in the early 1980s and concluded
that there was no evidence to suggest an association between leather
tanning and nasal cancer (IARC 1981). Case reports and epidemiological
studies since the IARC evaluation have indicated increased risk for
cancers among leather tanning and finishing workers—including lung
cancer, sinonasal cancer and pancreatic cancer associated with leather
dust and tanning (Mikoczy et al. 1996) and bladder cancer and testicular
cancer associated with dyes or solvents in the finishing process (Stern
et al. 1987). None of these associations is clearly established at this
time.